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Chrysler 3.5 Right Cam Gear Off Half Tooth UPDATED

Chrysler 3.5 Right Cam Gear Off Half Tooth

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Timing belt is off half a molar and won't line upwards, delight help.

  • Thread startert3t4turbo
  • Start appointment
  • #1
28
0
Mar 14, 2004
Portland, Oregon
I just got washed bulding my new 6 bolt motor and relised the t belt on the exhaust sproket seems to be about half a molar off. It is up half a tooth compared to the intake side.

I accept been told to leave information technology this way casue I may be able to recive some performance incresse on theses stock cams. Is this true and safe? Dont need to do another valve chore casue I just got done with one tonight.

Every time I try to realine the marks it ends upward allwese the aforementioned, about half a molar off at TDC. I have tryed information technology lke xxx times now and same result every fourth dimension, I even tryed puting the mark a tooth forward thinking maybe it would drib back and aline upwards but it didnt, it just stayed ane tooth forward.

:)

  • #2
halligoo
166
1
Nov 29, 2004
Pennsylvania
I had the same problem. I had to have 2 rubber trigger type clasp clamps and concur the chugalug on the cam sprockets. ane for each sprocket. The Manual explains to use two open up cease wrenches and hold the sprockets, but unless you have a helper, forget trying that.
  • Thread starter
  • #three
28
0
Mar 14, 2004
Portland, Oregon
I had the same problem. I had to take 2 rubber trigger type squeeze clamps and concord the belt on the cam sprockets. i for each sprocket. The Manual explains to use two open end wrenches and hold the sprockets, only unless y'all take a helper, forget trying that.

I tryed that and its fine right affter I put the belt on, but as soon as I plough the crank over a total rotation is is off again.

Thanks for the aid though :)

  • Thread starter
  • #4
28
0
Mar 14, 2004
Portland, Oregon
accept the crower valve springs and retianers, and yes, the cam sprokets are bolth the aforementioned.

I checked the tention all around the belt and information technology seems to be good, the tentioner is brand new and seems to have full pressure level.

You lot think it could be the extra tention from the afftermarket valve springs?

  • #5
halligoo
166
1
November 29, 2004
Pennsylvania
The only thing that comes to listen is if yous have the plunger blazon tensioner and yous aren't waiting long enough for the plunger to extend fully onto the mating surface of the tension caster earlier cycling the creepo. My outset ane took me well-nigh 2 days to effigy out. At present
information technology is nigh a 2 hour job.
  • Thread starter
  • #six
28
0
Mar 14, 2004
Portland, Oregon
The only thing that comes to mind is if yous take the plunger type tensioner and you aren't waiting long enough for the plunger to extend fully onto the mating surface of the tension pulley before cycling the creepo. My first one took me almost ii days to figure out. At present
it is nigh a 2 hour chore.

I tryed that, withal wont line up, I even tryed pulling the t belt forward one tooth with tention on the belt and it still will become dorsum to beingness one tooth off.

Arrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr, any ideas what I am doing wrong hither?

  • #7
BUCK
2,445
18
December 11, 2002
Summerville, South_Carolina
- My 2 cents on Tension Setting - latest revision.

- Set Sprockets & Balance Shafts per VFAQ - EXCEPT....

-May be necessary to BIAS = Mis-Time Exhaust Cam Sprocket 1 Molar Clockwise - Belt Tensioning process will roll information technology back into time.

-Don't forget to utilize Soft Loctite or RTV to Tensioner Fasteners & apply Final Torque.

-Run ALLTHREAD Tool in until Tensioner Arm Bottoms against Tensioner Body.

-Basically you lot preload the Eccentric Tension Caster enough to achieve the correct Gap between Tension Arm & Tensioner Trunk - So...

-PRE-LOAD the Eccentric Tension Pulley & snug Pulley Commodities (I used soft Loctite on this Bolt too) - My favorite Tool to apply the Load on the Caster is a Square Shanked Screwdriver that lays on ane of the Water Pump Bolt Heads nicely for leverage.

-Back off ALLTHREAD TOOL a few Turns letting the Tensioner Tension the T/Belt.

- This is a skilful time to Spin Crank 6 Turns so Timing Belt can take information technology'southward initial SEAT in Sprocket Grooves.

- Cease at TDC & check Belt Timing Marks - This is where y'all may see that you have to regroup on initial Timing Belt installation & Bias the Chugalug as I said at Starting time.

- Check Tension setting with Grenade Pin.

- If gap is too large you have UNDER TENSIONED Belt.

- Don't forget you have ALLTHREAD tool is there to help you hold what Tension yous've got Then RUN Information technology Back IN TILL IT TOUCHES.

- IF UNDERTENSIONED put MORE LOAD under Tensioner Pulley with long Screwdriver & SIMULTANEOUSLY loosen Pulley Commodities, putting more Tension on Belt & Snug up Pulley Bolt while applying Load.

- At present DON'T forget to back Allthread Toll off a few turns and then Tensioner tin can apply Tension.

- Check Tension setting with Grenade Pin.

- If Pin checks Sat apply Final Torque to Tension Pulley Bolt & RECHECK TENSION SETTING .

- If Gap is too small y'all have OVER-TENSIONED Belt - Dorsum off Tension Pulley Pre-Load a trivial.

- Install but enuff Belts & Pulleys to run H2o Pump - attach Bombardment charger & run Motor with NO Timing Covers & no Alternator.

- Immediately when you get it running Cheque Oil Pressure & Reset Base Timing & Idle as it comes upward to Total Running Temp - Start off with CAS at middle of adjustment - Bank check for Coolant & Oil Leaks - Bank check your new Water Pump & H2o Pump O Band, etc, etc...

- Later a proficient hot idle or 2 re-check Tension with Grenade Pin & Push button upwardly Covers if all is SAT - Expect to see one practiced stretch as Belt heats up & sets in & one good re-setting after initial idle.

Love, Buck

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Chrysler 3.5 Right Cam Gear Off Half Tooth UPDATED

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